Mod Guide: Nerf Elite Rayven

Since the Elite Rayven isn't really outstanding in stock condition, I modded mine. Here's the guide to tweaking your blaster. We'll be covering lock removals, overriding unnecessary switches and voltage mods.

1. Prepearation

Necessary tools and materials:

-Your Rayven

-Screwdriver

-Sandpaper

-Soldering Iron

-Trustfire Li-Ion Batteries

Remove all screws in the shell, open the blaster and get familiar with all the internals.

2. Lock removals

This first lock right below the trigger to remove keeps you from pulling it when the acceleration trigger isn't activated.

Remove the screw and take the upper plate out, then remove the main trigger.

Now remove the lock itself. Notice the little notch up there? 

There's another one on the main trigger, too. 

Sand both of them down a bit and you should be fine.

Put it back together and check if it's working fluidly.

The second and last lock is in the back, right above the clip-release button. It prevents you from pulling the trigger when there is no clip inserted, so remove the screw, take it and the plate that's sitting below out.

3. Overriding switches and Thermistor removal

You'll want your soldering iron for this part. There are much more cables than in the Stryfe, and I've spent some time trying to figure out which cables are relevant and how the circuit is working. To start, take all switches and cables out of their place to get a better overview.

The jam door is first. Remove all cables (red, pink and blue) on the switch and also take the blue cable off its pole. You should end up like this:

Now the clip detector switch, take off all cables (red, red and white). Also remove the white cable on the pole. Your setup is now:

The thermistor stops your current at higher voltages (in this case at about 11V-12V), so it needs to be removed, too. To do this, take it out of place first.

Note the soldering spots and melt both cables off.

Finally, just solder both yellow ends together.

We need the red cable just a little longer to reach all the way until the main switch slot. You'll need your red cable which you took off earlier now. Solder both red ends together.

Finally, solder the red end to the lower pole of the switch. The yellow cable should still be in place.

Your finished internals should look like this picture (I forgot to put some parts in here). Make sure to route the cables neatly and nothing is in the way of any moving parts.

When you have finished reassembling everything, take the other shell part and screw everything together again.

4. Voltage mod

This mod is quite easy, take your Trustfire Li-Ions and drop in how many you want. You can use any voltage now since the thermistor is removed. Be sure to check out my Basic Voltage Modding Guide for this. I decided to use 2 of them for a total of 8.4V and overrode the 2 other slots with cables.

Done! Congratulations to you for your newly tweaked Rayven. Go out there and dominate your friends now!

You probably noticed that the Elite Rayven also decelerates faster if you either remove the clip or open the jam door. However, I haven't found a method of a Fast Deceleration mod yet. I've tried everything, even accidentally shortened the circuit and almost fried the whole thing. If you have any idea/solution for it, please inform me. Also drop a comment on your thoughts on your "new" Rayven.

Mod Guide: Basic Voltage modding for everyone

To make some things easier, I've decided to make a basic guide to voltage mods with electronic blasters. I'll tell you what you need and should be careful with.
For all Voltage mods, I use unprotected Lithium-Ion Trustfire 14500 3.7V batteries, which you can get either from here or your local electronics store.

Also be completely sure you have a Lithium-Ion Charger (Yes, they need special ones), otherwise your batteries might even explode. These rechargeable batteries are good, because they have the same size as an AA battery, but higher discharge rate and voltage. With these, you can just replace your AA's in the battery tray with your Trustfires.

Trustfires are not essential, you can just as well use RC-Battery packs or else. 

Sometimes, you want only a little higher voltage (Picture: 8.4V), and not all battery slots filled with Li-Ions. This could be either because you think the motor is too loud with the maximum voltage (which is often my reason) or in stock condition, the Thermistor blocks any higher voltage. In that case, you can just put some connection in the slot to bypass it. I only use isolated copper cables, but for better safety dummy batteries can also fit in.

Full-auto blasters only have space for C size batteries. Then, either battery packs (like in the picture) or AA to C converter shells come into action.

Now that you've been informed about Voltage mods, you're good to go!

The section below is for all questions or comments!